Basic Dog Training
From basic obedience commands to advanced tricks, dog training is a rewarding and engaging experience for you and your dog.
That applies to the dog, too.
By nature, your dog wants your approval. It wants to please you (most of the time, anyway!). But it can’t do that without being taught what you expect of it.
During your dog’s life you may decide to teach it to perform all manner of impressive tricks and tasks. Those are optional. But the following types of training should be considered as absolutely essential for every dog owner.
TOILET TRAINING
If your dog spends any time indoors, toilet training is an absolute necessity – for very obvious reasons! Toilet training is often a time of trial and stress for everyone involved. But be patient, use the proper training techniques, and there’s sure to be a happy outcome.
Start when the dog is young – about 3 to 4 months of age. Any earlier, and your puppy probably won’t yet have sufficient bowel and bladder control. And if you start later, the training period is likely to take much longer.
When you begin the training, start by confining the puppy to a fairly restricted area – a single room, the length of a tethered lead, or even a crate. As your puppy begins to learn that ‘business’ is to be conducted outside, you can gradually expand the area that it’s allowed to roam.
Here are a few tips for effective toilet training:
- Regular mealtimes. Keep your puppy on a regular feeding schedule during toilet training. That means no snacking between meals! If it’s not mealtime, food shouldn’t be available to the dog.
- Offer frequent potty opportunities. Give your pup plenty of opportunities to take care of business outside. Go outside first thing in the morning, and then every 30 to 60 minutes throughout the day. And also take your puppy outside after it wakes from a nap or finishes a meal.
- Familiarity breeds comfort. Take your dog to the same spot outside every time. Your dog will recognize its scent and more readily do its business.
- Stay out with your dog. When you take your dog outside for a potty break, stay with it until it has taken care of business, or until it becomes obvious that it doesn’t need to just yet. Don’t just turn the dog out in the yard by itself.
- Praise success! When your doggie does its duty, praise it! Offer a treat, or something the dog really enjoys, like a walk.
OBEDIENCE TRAINING
Teaching your dog basic obedience is also a necessity. While an obedient dog is a pleasure to be around, the opposite is also true – a disobedient dog can be a real pain!
You can take your dog’s training to a much higher level if you choose to, of course. But at the very minimum, your dog should learn to respond to the following basic commands:
- Sit. This basic command helps you to keep control of your dog no matter the situation, and is a good command to teach first.
- Drop. This teaches your dog to instantly drop whatever is in its mouth. (Could save your dog from harm if it ever picks up something dangerous or toxic.)
- Stay. Teaches your dog to remain still, calm, and in one place.
- Heel. Teaches your dog to stay close to you as you walk, with or without a lead.
- Come. Teaches your dog to immediately come to you upon your command. You should begin to teach this command to your puppy as soon as it recognizes its name. This command could potentially help you protect your puppy from harm.
There are a number of dog-training methods available for teaching your dog these commands, but the Australian Veterinary Association recommends positive reinforcement as the best method.
Positive reinforcement rewards wanted behavior rather than punishing unwanted behavior. This method of training makes learning more enjoyable for your dog, and will help to strengthen the bond between you and your pet.
START WITH THE BASICS
Teaching your dog the basic commands of obedience will make your household a much more pleasant place.
Your dog will be happy because it wants to please you, and because it wants to reap the rewards of good behaviour. You will be happier because your dog will be more manageable and will enrich your life.
And visitors will be happy not to have to endure a poorly behaved pooch rampaging through the house!
TEACHING KIDS TO BE SAFE AROUND DOGS
For the most part dogs are our lovable, goofy, tail-wagging companions and important family members. However, teaching children to be safe around dogs, both those they know and those they don’t, is an important part of being a pet parent.
There are over 3 million dogs in Australia, and there are only a small number that will ever bite a child. It is important to know that in the right circumstances even the most placid dog can snap. The common refrain when it does happen is ‘he’s never bitten anyone before’. It is known that rather than being a random event 60% of dog bites occur in the home or backyard of family, neighbours or friends. Even the most placid dog can bite and children under the age of 10 are at higher risk. Children under 4 years should never be left alone even with a family pet.
DOG BODY LANGUAGE
Sometimes we forget how easily we read dog body language without even thinking about it. This is a learned skill and children need to be helped to understand when a dog is not friendly. For example when dogs bare their teeth some children can interpret this as a smile. Teach your child what a relaxed and happy dog looks like and avoid any other dog. A wagging tail can just meant the dog is keen to interact, but does not necessarily mean he is happy. In particular an erect, upright, slow wag is a sign a dog is on high alert and should be approached with caution. If a dog yawns, licks his lips or looks away, he does not want to be touched. The following video can be useful to show your children how dogs communicate and they can be quizzed on which dogs are happy and can be approached.
HOW TO APPROACH A DOG
Children should be told to always ask permission before approaching a dog, particularly if that dog is tied up outside a shop. They should never attempt to pat a dog who is eating, sleeping or has a toy. Many dogs are ‘resource guarders’ and will bite if they feel they have to protect their possessions and territory, but are absolutely fine in most other situations. A dog should be approached slowly with a closed hand, giving time for the dog to sniff the back of the hand. If all goes well, the dog can be gently patted on the chest or rubbed under the chin. Avoid the typical pat on the top of the head, as this can be a little daunting for some dogs. The following video demonstrates a ‘consent test’, to determine if a dog wants to be patted.
BE A TREE
Practice with your children the Be a Tree game. When a child is approached by a strange dog they should stand still, arms by side, eyes cast downwards and stay absolutely still and silent. You can practice this game at home with children by pretending to be a dog yourself and pretending to bound over to sniff your child. Many dogs will react if a child runs and shrieks, so practicing how to stay calm and still as a game will help your child be safe.
FAMILY PETS
Many bites are from a trusted family pet. Little wonder, when children are their adorable but noisy and unpredictable selves. They stare dogs directly in the face and are often at eye level and holding food, which can be very confrontational to your furry friend. It is important to protect your dog from being in a situation where he feels that he needs to snap. He should feel that you have his back and that he does not need to protect himself or his resources.
- Teach your children to ask you to get their toys back off your dog, and always give your dog another toy or treat in return when you take something from him.
- For pets over the age of 7 years, regular veterinary check ups can ensure there are no health problems, such as pain, vision or hearing problems that might mean your pet is easily startled or grumpy.
- Banishing your dog to outside can have the effect that he feels isolated from the family. If you have a suspicion that your dog is not safe around children seek the attention of a behaviour veterinarian who can help before problems develop.
- Place some strategic baby gates, so that if you need to leave the room your dog is not alone with the children.
- Gently touch your dog around the head, ears and tail and pair this with treats. Reward relaxed behaviour.
- Allow your children to give your dog treats and take them all for walks together to make sure your dog feels a part of the family.
- Practice how to play ball with your family dog if that is going to be an activity you want them to enjoy. Teach your dog to drop the ball on command and give a treat in return.
- When you first bring baby home, make sure all routine changes for your dog have occurred well beforehand. If your pet needs to sleep somewhere else, or will be spending more time outside, change this so that he doesn’t associate the baby with the changes.
Dogs are treasured members of our families and we want them to be safe around our children and other peoples families. Ensure you teach your children how to approach dogs safely, how to read dog body language and how to behave around their own pets. For further reading The Royal Children’s Hospital Melbourne have put together a detailed resource called Dogs’n’Kids which covers dog bite prevention and socially responsible dog ownership.
How to Potty Train a Puppy the Easy Way
You might be a little frustrated right now because house training is not progressing as fast as you had hoped. Your puppy just doesn't seem to get it... Or, maybe you are planning ahead and want to start potty training on the right paw !
Every puppy presents different challenges, but there are common instincts that will facilitate the house training process. This article will detail a training program with techniques that will house train your puppy as soon as possible and foster a trusting and loving relationship between you and your pup.
It's normal for a young puppy to be a little 'input-output' machine. Since they are growing and developing rapidly at this stage, they eat more food, burn up more energy and seem to need to eliminate constantly! Puppies have not yet developed bowel and bladder control, so they can't 'hold it' as long as adult dogs.
Puppies need time to developed a "den" instinct to cause them to want to 'hold it' and not soil the den, i.e., your entire house. In their litter, puppies just go whenever and wherever they happen to be! Successful house training depends upon your diligent supervision so you can be there to show your pup where to eliminate.
Just so you know, a puppy is never completely housetrained until they are 6 months old. For some breeds, even later. This means that though you may be making tremendous progress housetraining, there will be "mistakes". Sometimes for reasons you can't figure out! Don't fret about it. Stay focused on the progress you are making. Your confidence in the techniques you are using to house train your puppy will ensure your success.
Your Five Rules for House Training
• Give your puppy frequent access to his toilet area - prevent soiling in the house.
• Reward the pup for peeing or pooping in the right place - use a special treat.
• Never punish the pup for housetraining "mistakes" - scolding has dire consequences.
• Put your puppy on a regular and timely feeding schedule - in/out clockwork.
• Know when your puppy last eliminated - keep a diary.
How often do puppies have to potty?
Most puppies have to eliminate about every 30-45 minutes except, of course, when sleeping. Their elimination schedule will depend upon when they last ate or drank water; rambunctious physical activity; and the big unknown - personal preference! That's right - every pup has their own inherent elimination schedule. The good news is, puppies sleep alot!
The section below on "HouseTraining Taxi Service" will tell you WHEN to give your pup immediate access to her toilet area. For now - keep reading.
If your puppy is not sleeping in her crate or pen, and is out in the house, you must follow her around to know what she is doing: chewing a bone, running circles, getting a drink of water, etc. In fact, don't take your eye off of her! If you cannot watch her continuously, you must put her back into her pen or crate to prevent potty training "mistakes".
Regular feedings will house train a puppy faster
It's very important to put your puppy on a regular and timely feeding schedule; What goes in on a regular schedule will come out on a regular schedule. Every pup is different; some poop immediately after eating; with others it may be 30 minutes to an hour after eating. Unless advised by your vet for some medical reason, do not free-feed. That is, do not leave food out all the time. For two reasons: First, your pup's elimination schedule will be random at best. And second, she will not necessarily associate you as the provider of her food (see our article on being a pack leader and winning a puppy's respect and trust).
Always leave water out for your puppy. Check the water bowl frequently to note how much she is drinking and to make sure the water bowl is full.
The best way to potty train a puppy
Confinement to a small area such as a bathroom or an enclosed exercise pen in combination with confinement to a crate works best.
This method is the most effective and flexible. Your pup needs to develop his natural "den instinct" and learn where to eliminate - and where not to. To potty train our puppy we must condition a desire in the pup to avoid soiling the "den" - your house. Confinement and your due diligence in providing access outside the "den" to potty and poop will develop this instinct and eventual desire. When and how to use confinement is described in detail below.
Choose a designated toilet area for House Training
So, where do you want to train your puppy to always potty and poop? The puppy toilet area needs to be accessible very quickly.
• If you live in a high rise apartment, or a street level apartment or home with DIFFICULT outdoor access, use a bathroom or pen in the home for housetraining.
• If, however, you live in a street level apartment or home with EASY outdoor access, use a specific, very close outdoor location and use "Housetraining Taxi Service." You will still use an indoor pen for housetraining purposes, but outdoors will be your puppy's primary toilet area.
• If you live in a high rise apartment, or a street level apartment or home with DIFFICULT outdoor access, use a bathroom or pen in the home for housetraining.
• If, however, you live in a street level apartment or home with EASY outdoor access, use a specific, very close outdoor location and use "Housetraining Taxi Service." You will still use an indoor pen for housetraining purposes, but outdoors will be your puppy's primary toilet area.
Get the items you need for housetraining and set up the household:
• A few bottles of Nature's Miracle or similar product to remove urine and fecal stains and odor. Place these in a central or multiple locations in your house with paper towels.
• A crate that will fit next to your bed but only large enough to accomodate your puppy when full grown. I prefer the wire type for a full view of the puppy. Get one that also collapses for easy transporting.
• An exercise pen that your puppy cannot jump out of. Put the exercise pen in a central location where you spend most of your time at home. You may want to put a tarp down first then set the pen on top of it.
• Special housetraining treats (rewards) - something small and special, reserved and used only for a housetraining reward. These treats should be kept close to the designated toilet area.
• An uplifting, cheery, excited tone of voice to carry with you at all times ( do they have that at the pet store? ).
• A crate that will fit next to your bed but only large enough to accomodate your puppy when full grown. I prefer the wire type for a full view of the puppy. Get one that also collapses for easy transporting.
• An exercise pen that your puppy cannot jump out of. Put the exercise pen in a central location where you spend most of your time at home. You may want to put a tarp down first then set the pen on top of it.
• Special housetraining treats (rewards) - something small and special, reserved and used only for a housetraining reward. These treats should be kept close to the designated toilet area.
• An uplifting, cheery, excited tone of voice to carry with you at all times ( do they have that at the pet store? ).
"HouseTraining Taxi Service"
What ? To house train my puppy I have to call a cab? Well, not exactly, here's the scoop. Puppies will decide to potty or poop instantly, giving you no warning. So many times when housetraining, a puppy is led to the door and on the way they just stop and do their business. This usually happens because the puppy has not developed enough bladder or bowel control yet to "hold it" until they get to the toilet area or they simply don't know where the toilet area is yet. Not only has the pup made "a mistake," but you have lost a chance to reward for going in the right place.
The key to house training is preventing "mistakes" and rewarding the puppy for going in your chosen spot.
"HouseTraining Taxi Service" is simply picking the puppy up into your arms, taking them to the designated toilet area, setting them down and praising them for going where you want. If you are going outside, put a collar and leash on the pup immediately after picking them up, unless the toilet area is safely enclosed and escape proof.
When should you provide "HouseTraining Taxi Service"
• Immediately upon your puppy waking up (morning, noon or night).
• Immediately after they finish eating, get a big drink of water, and after excited play
• When you think they might have to go - about every 45 minutes.
Better too often than too late!
• When your puppy whines in the crate in the middle of the night or whines in their pen during the day. Take them out to potty, reward for going and put them right back. If they continue to whine, see our article on whining and crying.
• When your puppy is standing at the door to the outside. Why not just let them out, you say? Well, he may not make it all the way to the toilet area, potty or poop in the "wrong" place and you have missed a housetraining opportunity!
• Immediately upon your puppy waking up (morning, noon or night).
• Immediately after they finish eating, get a big drink of water, and after excited play
• When you think they might have to go - about every 45 minutes.
Better too often than too late!
• When your puppy whines in the crate in the middle of the night or whines in their pen during the day. Take them out to potty, reward for going and put them right back. If they continue to whine, see our article on whining and crying.
• When your puppy is standing at the door to the outside. Why not just let them out, you say? Well, he may not make it all the way to the toilet area, potty or poop in the "wrong" place and you have missed a housetraining opportunity!
For how long should you provide "HouseTraining Taxi Service" ?
Taxi your pup for about one month (until the pup is about 3 months old as this should give the pup enough time to develop some bladder and bowel control). By doing so, you will prevent many mistakes. At the same time you will train a stong preference in your pup to eliminate in your chosen spot. The pup will also learn that being picked up gets - kisses !
If you have a large breed puppy and can't pick them up, slip on a leash quickly and "rush" them to the potty area, do not stop until you are there !
Taxi your pup for about one month (until the pup is about 3 months old as this should give the pup enough time to develop some bladder and bowel control). By doing so, you will prevent many mistakes. At the same time you will train a stong preference in your pup to eliminate in your chosen spot. The pup will also learn that being picked up gets - kisses !
If you have a large breed puppy and can't pick them up, slip on a leash quickly and "rush" them to the potty area, do not stop until you are there !
House Training Warnings - "I'm gonna go!"
Guess what, you get no warning before a young puppy is about to potty! They just squat and do it... in an instant. So, if they potty in the wrong place, you didn't take them to their potty area soon enough - plain and simple.
However, with a poop you might get some warning - sometimes sniffing; usually circling by the puppy. By paying close attention to your puppy when they are out and about in the house, you may get a heads-up.
What to do if you catch your puppy in the act of a potty training "mistake"...
If pup is peeing in the wrong place... you may be able to stop him. Move quickly towards him when he begins to pee and pick him up. Urgency is key here - you want to startle the pup just a little as you move towards them to pick them up, but you DO NOT want to scare the pup. You are redirecting your puppy to the right spot - not disciplining him. Immediately after picking him up, take him to the potty area and patiently wait. Most pups will finish there. Reward your pup with exuberance!
If the pup is pooping... let them finish. Puppies are not able to shut off a poop like they can shut off a pee. More likely than not, you'll just create a huge mess by trying to interupt a poop.
As always, never make a big deal about cleaning up after your puppy when an accident occurs.
House training at your bedtime and when you wake up
Just before you go to bed and turn out the lights, go get your puppy, no matter where she may be, asleep or not, and taxi her to the potty area. Reward and praise as always for eliminating. Put her in the crate next to your bed and retire for the night.
First thing in the morning, take her out of the crate and taxi her to the potty area. Return her to the crate or pen unless you are able to supervise her without distraction. Feeding is usually next up. Feed your pup breakfast around the same time each morning and in the same location.
Passive House Training When you are NOT Home
Confine your puppy to his, 'puppy-proofed' bathroom or an exercise pen and paper (or wee-wee pad) the entire floor. Put his bed, toys and food/water bowls there. At first there will be no rhyme or reason to where your pup eliminates. He will go every where and any where. He will also probably play with the papers, chew on them, and drag them around his little den. Most puppies do this and you just have to live with it. Don't get upset; just accept it as life with a young puppy. The important thing is that when you get home, clean up the mess and lay down fresh papers.
While your puppy is confined to the bathroom or his pen, he is developing a habit of eliminating on paper because no matter where he goes, it will be on paper. As time goes on, he will start to show a preferred place to do his business. When this place is well established and the rest of the papers remain clean all day, then gradually reduce the area that is papered. Start removing the paper that is furthest away from his chosen location. Eventually you will only need to leave a few sheets down in that place only. If he ever misses the paper, then you've reduced the area too soon. Go back to papering a larger area.
Once your puppy is reliably going only on the papers you've left, then you can slowly and gradually move his papers to a location of your choice. Move the papers a little bit each day. If puppy misses the paper, then you're moving too fast. Go back a few steps and start over. Don't be discouraged if your puppy seems to be making remarkable progress and then suddenly you have to return to papering the entire area. This is normal. There will always be minor set-backs. If you stick with this procedure, your puppy will be paper trained.
House Training When You ARE Home
When you are home but can't attend to your puppy, follow the same procedures described above. However, the more time you spend with your puppy, the quicker he will be house trained. Your objective is to take your puppy to his toilet area every time he needs to eliminate. This should be about once every 30-45 minutes; just upon waking; just after eating or drinking; and just after a play session. Provide house training taxi service to avoid unnecessary "mistakes".
When your pup does eliminate in his toilet area, praise and reward him profusely and enthusiastically! Don't use any type of reprimand or punishment for mistakes or accidents. Your puppy is too young to understand and it can set the house training process back drastically.
Don't allow your puppy freedom outside of his room or pen unless you know absolutely for sure that his bladder and bowels are completely empty. When you do let him out, don't let him out of your sight. It is a good idea to have him on leash when he is exploring your home. He can't get into trouble if you are attached to the other end of the leash. Never, ever tie the puppy's leash to something and leave the puppy unattended.
As your puppy becomes more reliable about using his toilet area and his bowel and bladder control develops, he can begin to spend more time outside his room or pen with you in the rest of your home. Begin by giving him access to one room at a time. Let him eat, sleep and play in this room but only when he can be supervised. When you cannot supervise him, put him back in his room or pen.Active House Training
The most important thing you can do to make house training happen as quickly as possible is to reward and praise your puppy every time he goes in the right place. The more times he is rewarded, the quicker he will learn. Therefore it's important that you spend as much time as possible with your puppy and give him regular and frequent access to his toilet area.
The Key To Successful House Training
Consistency and Patience. Never scold or punish your puppy for mistakes and accidents. The older your pup gets, the more he will be able to control his bladder and bowels. Eventually your pup will have enough control that he will be able to "hold it" for longer and longer periods of time. Let your puppy do this on his own time. When training is rushed, problems usually develop. Don't forget, most puppies are not completely house trained until they are 6 months old.
No comments:
Post a Comment